Thursday, April 06, 2006

Alsacian History and more (WARNING: this is going to be a long story...)

For anyone who’s interested in a little French geography and some Alsacian history / Pour n’importe qui s’intéressant à un petit bout de la géographie française et quelque histoire d’Alsace.

(i.e. Melia’s studying for Thursday’s test in her “Civilisation Française” class / i.e. Melia est en train d’étudier pour son examen jeudi dans son cours de Civilisation Française)

NOTE: Originally I was going to write this in both French and English to offer a little bilinguilism (and get in some good french pracitice). Alas, I didn’t foresee my “overview” becoming the rather lengthy document to follow (I should know by now that when I start writing on a topic of interest, it’s a lost cause). Hence, my bilingual plan has not yet seen the light and considering Gretchen is set to show up in a few hours and I have plenty of other things on my plate... it’s not going to happen. Apologies to anyone hoping to read about French history in its mother language.

FRANCE :

POPULATION: 62 million (about the same as England’s)

MAINLAND GEOGRAPHY:

Five main rivers... from most northern to most southern, La Seine, La Loire, and La Garonne run horizontally, where as Le Rhône (mid-France) and Le Rhin (bordering germany) flow vertically.

Mountain ranges...

Centralized location: France borders six other Western European countries (Spain to the south west, Italy to the south east, Switzerland and Germany to the east, and Belgium to the north), and its coastal frontiers run along the English Channel to the north, the Atlantique to the west, and the Mediterranean to the south.

ORGANISATION:

France’s make-up varies widely in both its geographic landscape and the cultural pockets that are associated with its various regions. The country’s division into regions actually didn’t happen until rather late in the game by pre-Chirac socialist President François Mittérand’s order in 1982. However, many of the officially recognized regions reflect cultural and geographic pockets already established for centuries, from Alsace in the east with its germanic roots to the Celtic-stronghold of Brittany in the north west to the sunny once-Italian island of Corsica. The main “hexigone” of France boasts 22 regions, with an additional four overseas regions (la Guadeloupe, Guyane, Martinique, et Réunion) bringing the total to 26.

One step down from France’s “regions” come its departments, established back during the revolutionary days. Departments are reigned over by the conseil général, which, like most other governmental bodies in France, is directly elected by the french people. Préfets head up both departments and regions in France, a political move put in place by Napoléon back in his illustrious ruling days.

Departments can be differentiated by the perceptive eye by the final two numbers of license plates issued in the area. Strasbourg, for example, holds the Bas-Rhin number of 67. The Rhône gets the lucky 69, and Ile de France, due to Paris’s density, calls for multiple double-digit sets to cover its eight zones. Overseas territories get three final distinguishing digits, and recently acquired Corsica gets 2A and 2B to differentiate its northern and southern departments. The departments were originally issued their number alphabetically (Ain gets 01, Yonne 89), thus any new acquisitions or density increases call for random add-ons at the end (the last five of Ile de France’s number sets range from 91 to 95, as they were created after the original alphebetized numbering).

Smaller than departments come “communes” or cities, though sometimes smaller villages are grouped together under a single “commune.” All of France (including its overseas constituents) boasts 26 million communes, with a mayor (“maire”) from each making up the ruling conseil municipale. Each level of goverment (regional, departmental, and municipal) has a legislative, executive, and judiciary branch. And unlike the U.S.’s indirect system and electoral college set-up, the french vote directly five different times to elect national, regional, departmental (general), and municipal goverment officials (I realize that’s only four categories, but I wrote down “five elections”... my notes seem to have left out the fifth governmental player).

Example of Strasbourg’s situation:
Commune: Strasbourg
Départment: Bas-Rhin
Région: Alsace
Territoire: France métropolitaine

FRANCE OUTRE-MER:

Before the segmentation down to regions, departments, and communes however, comes the distinction of territories. Even though France went through a period of “decolonisation” after WWII just like other Western colonizing countries, it still managed to hold on to various departments and territories abroad, from the Caribbean to the Indian Ocean, to Polynesia and even the very eastern tip of Canada. Thus French territories are broken down into “la France Métropolitaine” (or “the Hexagone”, which approximates the shape of France’s main European residence), and “la France d’Outre Mer.” This second category is broken down even farther into “Departments Outre-Mer” and “Territoires Outre-Mer.” Those overseas holdings considered “departments” have fully-fledged french status: they have a french passport, French is the official language, they can move to France sans immigration problems (though once there they might run into other issues, such as unemployment)... they are French, whether or not they’ve ever seen “the Hexagone” or not. Our professor likened the situation to the U.S.’s Hawaii.

D.O.M. --> Départments Outre-Mer (Overseas Departments). Considered to be fully fledged french departments, the five overseas DOMs have the same rights, the same rules, the same social security, etc. as the hexagone’s citizens.
Ex. La Réunion (island east of Madagascar), Guadalupe, Martinique (both Caribbean islands)

T.O.M. --> Territoires Outre-Mer (Overseas Territories). These are different in that they exercise more autonomy, but still have some political and economic dependence on France (I’m not certain as to the specifics).
Ex. Guyane (east of Venezuela in South America)


ALSACE:

HISTORY:

Alsace is set apart from the rest of France by its oscillating heritage, during which it changed hands between France and Germany FIVE TIMES within the last four centuries. The following is a brief documentation of these changes and the circumstances that brought them about.

Change #1 – Into the Hands of the French:

During medieval times, Alsace was a fairly autonomous region, with Colmar and Strasbourg ruling themselves as free imperial cities. However, when the Thirty Year’s War (religious war, 1618-1648) came along, Alsace’s primarily protestant cities appealed to France for protection against the Catholics. At the war’s conclusion, the signing of the Peace of Westphalia declared Alsace a French protectorate and then province. However, when the dictating Louis XIV came to the thrown he not only re-outlawed Protestantism, he also invaded Strasbourg by force and took complete control for France. During the period that followed, both Germanic and French cultures coexisted side by side for a good time, without too much hassle. The region was decidedly bilingual and a cultural melange was the norm. It was during theis time that German Goethe studied at the University of Strasbourg.

However, once the revolution hit, the notion of French unification was suddenly number one on the agenda. Thus, a period of intense “Francification” swept the nation, hitting Alsace and consequently outlawing the German language and other Germanic influences (similar francification initiatives hit Brittany, where the celtic language and culture was suppressed).

Change #2 – France loses to Bismark:

After the revolution, France was in need of a leader but eschewed the idea of returning to monachal rule. Thus, when Napolean swept in with his grandious ideas of conquering an empire, he was rather welcomed... up until he lost pretty badly at the Battle of Waterloo, marking the end of the First Empire. But wait... if there’s a “first”, there must be a second to follow, right? Indeed, after a brief return to monachy, 1848 brought about the socialist proletariat revolution, after which the country installed a system of presidential elections by universal suffrage. The winning candidate? Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, the nephew of their previous emperor.

The new Napoleon, however, was not satisfied with this “mere presidency” idea. Perhaps discontented to live in the shadow of his uncle (or simply endowed with the same “notions of grandeur” genes), he ditched the presidency by means of a Coup d’état of his own government, declaring himself Emperor Napolean III in December of 1852. From there, he riled up armies and headed out to make war and stake his claim in new lands. Unfortunately, Prussian leader Bismarck had similar goals and wasn’t about the let this new Napolean snatch away any territory of his. The two butted heads (and armies) in Sedan, in the Voges mountain range, and Bismarck came out victorious. The result? Alsace, east of the Voges, was lost to Germany in 1870. In face of a region now almost completely frenchified, Bismark and his crew turned the tables 180 degrees and began an intense “germanification” of the area, reinforcing the German language, changing the names of the streets and towns (which remain today), and instituting Germanic culture throughtout the region.

For the next 40 odd years, Alsace found itself in a period of growth and prosperity. In the hopes to keep its newly annexed territory relatively happy, the germanic rule offered the region a good amount of independence, as well as a number of economic and cultural “gifts” in the shape of new roads, buildings, universities, and banks. The University of Strasbourg was a german creation, many of the famous buildings in the area were german-built, and the first banks of France were actually the vestiges of German banks remaining in Alsace when the region switched back over to French rule. All in all, life was pretty good in German Alsace during this period.

Change #3 – WWI ends and France reclaims its Alsacian lands:

1918. Germany has lost the war and victorious France snatches back its territory east of the Voges. Except this time around, extra complications arise. After all, where were the Alsacians during the first world war? In the German army. In enemy lines. Thus, in order to try and shake any potential patriotism to the former enemy, France revisits its post-Revolutionary plan: RE-FRANCIFICATION. The German language is again forbidden, French becomes obligatory, etc. etc. etc. This continues for 20 or so years until WWII hits. And the misery begins.

Change #4 – WWII and Nazi Occupation:

Come 1940, France surrenders to a stronger Nazi German army, and Nazi occupation begins. Alsace, being the closest to Germany, is completely taken over by Nazi troops. While some folks managed to evacuate to western France before the occupation takes place, the rest are forced to succumb to Nazi control. Unlike the previous German rule, which showered the region with cultural and economic advancements, the Nazi take over brings destruction, the only “gifts” offered during this time being the establishment of the only two concentration camps to reside on French soil (Schirmeck and Struthof, both in Bas-Rhin). The University of Strasbourg is taken over and turned into the Nazi training Reich University. Many Alsacians are forced to attend Nazi schools. Others are deported to concentration camps. And others are incorporated into the German forces to fight not against their fellow frenchman (too risky) but instead are sent to the Russian front. 150,000 Alsacians were sent off to fight in Stalingrad, Leningrad, etc. 80,000 returned (a little less than 50%).

Change #5 – Liberation and return to French rule

1945 brings an Allied victory and the return of a broken Alsace to France. Reconciliation between France and Germany begins, as does the reconstruction of Europe as a whole. Instead of continuing with the previous trend of francification in the Alsacian region, a new path is taken in hopes of reducing border tensions and building international connections. Thus, in 1946, with the forming of the Conseil d’Europe, Strasbourg is chosen to become its governmental head quarters, developping a European identity instead of returning to francification.

ALSACIAN CULTURE & IDENTITY:

At present, Alsace remains a distinct mixture of German and French influence, with Strasbourg and some of the other larger cities adding a distinct international community to the mix. The “internationalization” of the area has brought both positive and negative responses from the community. True Alsacians are now dwindelling in number against the waves of immigration, both from the rest of France and the world at large. Fearing globalization, scared to lose their roots, many Alsacians have chosen the path of “reclosure,” holding on to their Alsacian identities with extreme pride and vehemently opposed to increased immigration. The rest of France’s ridicule of the Alsacian accent (layered with a jilting german influence considered rather “moche” or ugly) probably doesn’t help the situation. Their political tendency? Extreme right, or Le Front National (headed by Le Pin back in the last round of presidential electrions).

In Bischeim, a community just north of Strasbourg, a full 30% of the votes went for Le Pin during the last election, which is quite a lot, considering the French spread their votes out among a number of different parties (quite different from the US’s primarily Democratic/Republican split, even though the various parties tend to be slanted to the right or the left in varying degrees). Wanting to guard their identity and their history, many Alsacians are guilty of pretty heavy racism (I’ve certainly noticed some undertones with my host mom – half Alsacien – who uses the terms “us” and “them” quite freely, is in favor of Sarcozy’s proposed “Selective Immigration” and against her daughter’s “foreign” “uneducated” boyfriend).

Advice from my Civilization Française professor (who himself is a culture mutt, originally from Indian but having taught in universities across the globe): Alsacians can be some of the friendliest folks out there if you show interest in their culture and heritage. Just, whatever you do, STAY AWAY FROM POLITICS unless you want to tred on some very sensitive ground.

GEORGRAPHY:

Alsace is the smallest of the 22 regions within metropolitan France. Within Alsace, the land is split up into two departements, Le Bas-Rhin “The Lower Rhin” and Le Haut-Rhin “The Upper Rhin”... counter-intuitive as it may be, the Bas-Rhin covers the northern part of the region, whereas the Haut-Rhin is found to the south. Rather than attributing “high” and “low” to cardinal directions, the names refer to the terrain: Le Bas-Rhin to the north is made up of lower-lying areas, whereas Le Haut-Rhin gets into higher elevation where it overlaps with Les Voges mountain range.

The population of Alsace is around 2 million, with a density of around 200 habitents/km2. The three major Alsacian cities are Strasbourg in the north (Bas-Rhin) and Mulhouse and Colmar in the south (Haut-Rhin).

ECONOMY:

Alsace is one the richest regions in France, and along with Switzerland and Germany, it makes up part of the “Golden Triangle”, one of the Europe’s wealthiest areas (wealth in this case is based on revenues per habitent and foreign investments). So how did a small germanic french region with such a tumultuous history manage to rank with some of Europe’s most well-endowed? Simple: prime location. Alsace is very centralized in terms of its geography and its economic accessibility. Draw a circle 500 miles out from Alsace in all directions, and you’ll encompass London to the north, the majority of France, a tad of Spain, and about half of Italy to the south. You’ll get all of Switzerland, Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, Luxembourg and Belgium, and you’ll even reach over into the beginnings of Eastern Europe and up to base of Scandanavia in Denmark. With Alsace’s eastern border flanking the likes of the Rhin river, north/south transport is simple, and rail access east-west is also a fairly straight shot.

America and Japan are two of the top Alsacian investors.

Alsace also boasts one of the lowest unemployment rates in France (8%, as opposed to the national 10%). One of the reasons for this (and contributing factor in the region’s wealth) is that many “frontaliers” live in Alsace but work across the border, commuting each day into Germany or Switzerland. Thus Alsace doesn’t have to worry about providing jobs for all its inhabitants AND it gets money coming into the country through salaries paid by its neighboring countries.

Alsace’s three economic sectors are agriculture, industry, and services. Within agriculture, the top crops are corn, tobacco, and – of couse – wine (Pino Noir – Alsace’s only red wine –, Tokay Pino Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Gewurtztraminer, Sylvaner, and Crémant d’Alsace, a sparking wine). Within industry, Mulhouse is well-known for its automobile production. A good sector of Alsace’s industry is foreign implanted.

UNIVERSITIES:

Alsace boasts four umbrella universities, in Strasbourg, Colmar, Mulhouse, and the “Université de Haute Alsace.” Of Strasbourg’s 53,000 students, 40,000 attend the main university’s three separate schools: L’Université Louis Pasteur (Science and Medicine), L’Université March Bloch (Humanities and Social Sciences), and L’Université Robert Schuman (Law and Political Science). The city also offers two public “facultés de théologie” (one Protestant, the other Catholic), which are the only public theology universities in an otherwise secular France. This allowance is due to the special detail about Alsace that allows it to maintain a melange of church and state (e.g. ministers, preists and rabbis paid by the state, more religious holidays observed here than elsewhere, Sundays are official “days of rest”, etc.) while the rest of france mandates a separation. The detail: When a 1905 law was past by the then-socialist french government calling for the separation of church and state, Alsace belonged to Germany. When it reintegrated back into France (both times), somehow the law wasn’t applied. Just another thing that sets Alsace miles apart from its French motherland.

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